Reference source : WTO
In June 2026, the East African Community (Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania, and Uganda) advanced several Draft East African Standards (DEAS) aimed at improving cosmetic quality and safety. The standards harmonize testing methods for oils and fats and establish requirements for bath salts, strengthening regulation, regional trade, and product safety across the region.
Details of the Draft Standards
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 1: Glossary of Terms (DEAS 847-1:2025)
Serving as the foundation for the analytical series, DEAS 847-1:2025 provides a harmonized glossary of terms used in the testing and evaluation of cosmetic oils and fats. The standard defines key technical concepts, including acid value, free fatty acids, moisture content, insoluble impurities, iodine value, saponification value, and unsaponifiable matter. By standardizing terminology, the document promotes consistency in interpretation, testing, and reporting across laboratories, manufacturers, and regulatory authorities.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 2: Determination of Moisture Content and Volatile Matter (DEAS 847-2:2025)
DEAS 847-2:2025 establishes standardized procedures for determining moisture content and volatile matter in cosmetic oils and fats. The standard outlines three analytical techniques—the air-oven method, hot-plate method, and Dean and Stark distillation method—allowing laboratories to select the most appropriate approach based on the characteristics of the product being tested. Accurate measurement of moisture and volatile substances is essential for evaluating product stability, shelf life, storage conditions, and overall quality.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 3: Determination of Insoluble Impurities (DEAS 847-3:2025)
DEAS 847-3:2025 specifies a method for determining insoluble impurities in oils and fats. The procedure enables laboratories to detect and quantify foreign matter such as dirt, particulate contaminants, and other insoluble substances that may compromise product quality, performance, or consumer safety.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 4: Determination of Acid Value and Free Fatty Acids (DEAS 847-4:2025)
DEAS 847-4:2025 prescribes procedures for determining acid value and free fatty acid content in cosmetic oils and fats. Using a titration-based method. Results may be expressed as acid value or as free fatty acids calculated in terms of oleic, lauric, ricinoleic, or palmitic acid, depending on the oil type. These parameters serve as important indicators of raw material quality, freshness, stability, and suitability for cosmetic applications.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 5: Determination of Unsaponifiable Matter (DEAS 847-5:2025)
DEAS 847-5:2025 establishes a method for quantifying unsaponifiable matter in oils and fats through saponification, solvent extraction, residue determination, and correction for fatty acid content. The resulting value indicates the proportion of components that do not form soap during saponification.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 6: Determination of Melting Point (DEAS 847-6:2025)
DEAS 847-6:2025 introduces two methods for determining melting point: the open-tube capillary slip method and the closed-tube complete-fusion method. These procedures provide standardized measurements of melting characteristics for oils and fats used in cosmetic formulations.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 7: Determination of Specific Gravity (DEAS 847-7:2025)
DEAS 847-7:2025 describes procedures for measuring specific gravity using either a Westphal hydrostatic balance or a pyknometer. It includes methods for temperature correction and reporting density values at specified temperatures, ensuring consistency across laboratories
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 8: Determination of Titre Test (DEAS 847-8:2025)
DEAS 847-8:2025 describes the titre test method for determining the solidification point of fatty acids derived from oils and fats. Following saponification and acidification, the temperature at which the fatty acid column rises within a capillary tube is recorded as the titre value, indicating solidification characteristics.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 9: Determination of Colour (DEAS 847-9:2025)
DEAS 847-9:2025 specifies the use of a Lovibond Tintometer for evaluating the colour of oils and fats. Colour is reported using Lovibond yellow and red units, providing a standardized approach for visual quality assessment of cosmetic raw materials.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 10: Determination of Acetyl Value and Hydroxyl Value (DEAS 847-10:2025)
DEAS 847-10:2025 establishes two analytical methods for determining acetyl and hydroxyl values which are important indicators of hydroxyl-containing compounds in oils and fats. These measurements are widely used in characterizing specialty oils and fatty materials.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 11: Determination of Allyl Isothiocyanate (DEAS 847-11:2025)
DEAS 847-11:2025 provides a quantitative method for measuring allyl isothiocyanate content in oils and fats. Results are calculated and expressed as a percentage by weight of the sample.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 12: Determination of Flash Point by Pensky-Martens Closed Cup Tester (DEAS 847-12:2025)
DEAS 847-12:2025 outlines the use of the Pensky-Martens closed cup apparatus for determining the flash point of oils and fats. It includes procedures for sample preparation, testing conditions, and atmospheric pressure corrections.
Cosmetics — Analytical Methods — Part 13: Determination of Rancidity (DEAS 847-13:2025)
DEAS 847-13:2025 specifies a qualitative method for detecting rancidity in cosmetic oils and fats. The procedure utilizes phloroglucinol solution and concentrated hydrochloric acid to identify the presence of degradation products associated with rancidity. A sample is considered compliant when no pink coloration develops during the test.
Bath Salt — Specification (DEAS 1355:2025)
The EAC has also developed DEAS 1355:2025, a comprehensive specification for bath salts, covering products such as Epsom salts, Dead Sea salts, Himalayan salts, and Himalayan pink salts. The standard establishes requirements for product composition, moisture content, pH, sodium chloride and magnesium sulphate content, water-insoluble matter, packaging, and labelling.
In addition, the specification also introduces stringent limits for heavy metal contaminants, including lead, arsenic, mercury, and cadmium, helping to safeguard consumer health. In addition, it establishes microbiological criteria to ensure product safety by requiring the absence of harmful microorganisms such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, and Escherichia coli. Packaging and labelling provisions require clear consumer information, including precautionary statements such as “For external use only” and “Avoid contact with eyes.”
The draft standard further aligns with internationally recognized testing procedures and references a range of ISO standards for chemical, microbiological, and quality assessments, reflecting the EAC's commitment to global best practices in cosmetics regulation.
Conclusion
The publication of the DEAS 847 Parts 1–13:2025 draft standards represents an important step in harmonizing cosmetic regulations within the East African Community (EAC). They introduce standardized methods for assessing oils, fats, and related materials such as bath salts, supporting improved quality, safety, and consistency in testing and regulation.
Once adopted, the standards will provide a unified framework aligned with international requirements, strengthening regulatory oversight and enhancing the competitiveness of the regional cosmetics industry. Comments on the draft standards may be submitted to the WTO until 14 August 2026. The proposed dates of adoption and entry into force have not yet been determined.