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INCI: The Global Standard for Cosmetic Ingredient Identification

2025-09-04 15:16:42

international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients INCI cosmetic ingredient labeling INCI names

The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) is the standardized global system for identifying cosmetic components. This nomenclature provides a uniform framework that enables manufacturers, regulators, and consumers to accurately identify ingredients across international markets. It enhances transparency, facilitates regulatory adherence, and supports informed consumer decision-making. INCI labeling is mandated in major markets including the European Union, United States, Canada, and Japan, ensuring consistent identification regardless of the product's country of sale. 

Historical Development of the INCI Standard 

    • 1973: Established in the United States by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (now the Personal Care Products Council - PCPC). 
    • 1990s: Formally adopted by the European Union under the Cosmetics Directive, with current governance under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. 
    • Present: Recognized as the undisputed global standard, encompassing over 25,000 ingredient nomenclature entries within the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. 

    Process for Obtaining an INCI Designation 

    The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) administers the process for establishing new INCI names to ensure scientific accuracy and global consistency. The procedure involves several key stages, as outlined below. 

    Table 1: Overview of the INCI Designation Process 

    Stage 

    Key Actions & Requirements 

    Typical Timeline 

    1. Data Compilation 

    Applicant gathers comprehensive data including: 
    • Chemical identity (IUPAC name, CAS number) 
    • Structural formula and physicochemical properties 
    • Manufacturing process and derivation 
    • Cosmetic function (e.g., emulsifier, preservative) 
    • Available safety data 

    Varies by applicant 

    2. Application Submission 

    Completed application is formally submitted via the PCPC online portal along with the requisite fees. 

    1-2 weeks 

    3. Committee Review 

    The INCI Committee evaluates the submission based on: 
    Naming Accuracy: Clarity and uniqueness 
    Originality: Distinction from existing names 
    Compliance: Adherence to INCI conventions 

    2-4 months 

    4. Publication 

    Accepted names are published in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and integrated into regulatory databases (e.g., EU CosIng). 

    1-2 months 

    The complete process typically requires three to six months from submission to official designation. 

    Ingredient Safety Assessment: The Role of the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) 

    While the INCI system identifies what an ingredient is, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) is responsible for evaluating its safety. Established in 1976 as an independent, expert panel, the CIR assesses scientific data to determine if ingredients are safe for use in cosmetics under specified conditions. 

    The CIR's rigorous assessment process involves a panel of independent scientists (toxicologists, dermatologists, and chemists) who review all available data and issue public safety conclusions. 

    Table 2: CIR Safety Determination Categories 

    Determination 

    Definition 

    Safe 

    The ingredient is safe for use in cosmetics as currently practiced. 

    Safe with Qualifications 

    The ingredient is safe for use, but within specific concentration limits or under certain conditions. 

    Unsafe 

    The ingredient is not safe for use in cosmetic products. 

    Insufficient Data 

    The available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety. 

    These findings, though not legally binding, are highly influential to regulators and manufacturers worldwide, providing a critical layer of consumer protection. 

    Key Regulatory and Information Resources 

    Table 3: Authoritative Cosmetic Ingredient Databases 

    Resource 

    Primary Function 

    Access 

    PCPC INCI Application Portal 

    Official platform for submitting applications for new INCI names. 

    PCPC Members 

    EU CosIng Database 

    Search for INCI names, functions, and regulatory status in the European Union. 

    Publicly Accessible 

    Health Canada Hotlist 

    Identifies cosmetic ingredients that are restricted or prohibited for use in Canada. 

    Publicly Accessible 

    Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) 

    Access detailed safety assessments and final reports for evaluated ingredients. 

    Publicly Accessible 

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